Which 6000m Peak Should You Climb First?

Choosing your first (or next) 6000m Himalayan peak is one of the most important decisions you will make as a mountaineer. Pick too hard and you risk failure or worse; pick too easy and you leave the experience you came for on the table. Here is an honest comparison of the four peaks we support through our permit and basecamp programme.

The Four Peaks Side by Side

Island Peak (6,189m) is the best choice for first-time climbers. The glacier approach is straightforward, the only technical section is a single 60-metre headwall with fixed ropes in season, and the logistics via Dingboche are simple. Basic mountaineering skills and a solid training foundation are sufficient.

Mera Peak (6,476m) is the least technical option — steep snow slopes rather than ice — but it is higher and more remote, with a longer Hinku Valley approach. Choose it if you want maximum altitude with minimum technical stress.

Lobuche East (6,119m) is a genuine technical climb: a 45-degree snow and ice ridge, an exposed summit ridge, and no easy sections. It demands prior crampon, ice axe, and rope experience. It is the right second peak after Island Peak or Mera.

Ama Dablam (6,812m) is in a different league — sustained technical climbing on mixed rock and ice over three camps. Only consider it after multiple 6000m ascents and real rock and ice mileage.

A Sensible Progression

For most climbers the progression that works is: Island Peak → Mera Peak → Lobuche East → Ama Dablam. Each step adds one new demand — first altitude, then remoteness, then technical terrain, then sustained difficulty. Skipping steps is the most common cause of failed expeditions.

Cost and Logistics at a Glance

Our dry-price permits are $750 for Island Peak, Mera Peak, and Lobuche East, and $5,500 for Ama Dablam. Allow 16–18 days for the first three and 21 for Ama Dablam. See our DIY expedition planning guide and cost breakdown to plan the full budget.